Serums & Essences · 16/06/2026
The daily BHA toner step that replaced pore strips in Korean skincare routines
Pore strips remove the top of blackheads but leave the pore congestion intact. BHA toners dissolve the sebum in the pore from the inside — and for daily use, they prevent congestion from reforming.
BHA in toners: why salicylic acid is specifically effective for pore congestion
Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) — primarily salicylic acid in skincare — is oil-soluble, which distinguishes it from AHAs (glycolic, lactic, mandelic acids) which are water-soluble. Oil-solubility is the property that makes BHA effective for pore congestion: it can penetrate through the sebum in the pore channel and dissolve the mixture of dead cells, oxidised sebum and bacteria that forms comedones and blackheads from the inside. Water-soluble exfoliants work only on the skin surface; BHA works within the pore itself. This is why dermatologists consistently recommend BHA over AHA for oily, congested, pore-enlarged skin.
Niacinamide with BHA: the combination for pore size and congestion
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) combined with BHA in a treatment toner addresses pore concerns through two complementary mechanisms. BHA dissolves existing congestion and exfoliates the pore lining. Niacinamide reduces sebum production (by modulating the sebocyte cells responsible for oil secretion) and reduces the appearance of pore size (by strengthening the collagen support structure around pore openings, reducing their tendency to stretch). Using both in the same product delivers congestion clearance and preventive pore size management simultaneously rather than sequencing them in separate steps.
How to introduce a BHA treatment toner into a routine without over-exfoliating
Start with every-third-day use of a BHA treatment toner (applied after the first-step hydrating toner and before serums, using a cotton pad swept gently over the face). At this frequency, monitor for excessive dryness or increased sensitivity over two weeks. If skin tolerates it, increase to every other day. Reserve daily use for skin that has established full tolerance over at least four weeks. Do not use on the same evening as retinol or other AHAs. Always follow with SPF the following morning — BHA accelerates cell turnover and increases UV sensitivity.
AXIS-Y Daily Purifying Treatment Toner 200ml — available on BuyBeautyKorea →
