The K-beauty cleansing tradition that started with rice water in Joseon court beauty rituals

The Joseon court beauty tradition and the origin of rice water skincare

Korean historical beauty texts from the Joseon dynasty (1392-1897) document the use of rice water — the milky water produced from rinsing uncooked rice — as a daily skin treatment. Court women would collect the water from the second or third rice rinse (when the starch concentration and the bran oils were most concentrated) and use it to wash their face. Modern phytochemical analysis of rice water identifies the active components: ferulic acid (a UV-absorbing and antioxidant phenolic acid), allantoin (soothing and cell-renewing), inositol (barrier-supportive polysaccharide), and the complete B-vitamin complex from rice bran. The tradition worked because the chemistry worked — centuries of empirical use preceded the laboratory validation by hundreds of years.

Fermented rice in modern K-beauty cleanser formulation: what the fermentation adds

Hanyul (Amore Pacific's traditional Korean beauty brand) and similar heritage-focused K-beauty brands use fermented rice — either fermented rice water, rice koji (rice fermented with Aspergillus oryzae), or saké by-products — rather than raw rice extract. Fermentation transforms the rice actives: ferulic acid concentration increases as fermentation breaks down ferulic acid esters; kojic acid (a potent melanin synthesis inhibitor) is produced as a fermentation by-product that is not present in unfermented rice; and the rice proteins are broken down into smaller amino acids and peptides that penetrate the skin surface more readily. Fermented rice extract is measurably more brightening than unfermented rice extract in clinical skin tone tests.

Rice foam cleanser in a K-beauty brightening double cleanse routine

For a brightening-focused cleanse routine: first cleanse with an oil-based or balm cleanser to dissolve SPF and makeup. Second cleanse with rice foam cleanser, using the dry-to-wet technique — apply the foam to dry skin for 30 to 60 seconds before adding water to maximise the contact time for the fermented rice brightening actives. Massage gently with circular motions, concentrating on areas of pigmentation concern. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. This daily brightening cleanse, combined with a niacinamide or vitamin C toner as the next step, creates a multi-step brightening effect at the earliest stages of the routine before serums are applied.

HANYUL Ginseng The Classic Enriched Creamy Cleansing Foam 200ml — available on BuyBeautyKorea →